The initial leg of international fashion showcases this year were overcast by the horrific repercussions of the global coronavirus pandemic which has spiralled out of control, affecting each industry equally.
The developments saw an umpteen number of designers and high fashion labels holding their shows via ‘closed doors’, streaming them online live for their audience – which has led us to wonder if digital shows can also be the future of fashion runway presentations.
Worth mentioning here is Annakiki, who was one of the few Chinese designers who was able to showcase at Milan Fashion Week before the COVID-19 emergency was declared, this season. On this note, she presented a collection titled ‘Infoxication’: A lightly veiled complaint against the overload of information that invades our brain daily. Perhaps a comment on the media-led paranoia of the moment? “Internet, television, artificial intelligence, social media have been bombarding us with information, be it fake news or real news. Our life has become smarter, but at the same time we have become lazier,” the designer said.
She revisited the past and juxtaposed it with the present by bringing back some of her classic silhouettes and iconic cuts to the runway, revisiting them through psychedelic rainbow prints, asymmetrical designs and dramatic sleeves.
It’s a given that every designer, whether they are based in New York, London or Paris, works for creating a unique aesthetic that sets them apart from the international crowd. Yet, no designer dumps their aesthetic quicker than those from London. Caught between a barrage of commercial viability and the desire to be creative, they often leave behind the better parts of their work, which is a shame.
Milan, on the other hand, has always been associated with its take on effortless elegance – having a way with materials and the layering of silhouettes that is still considered to be timelessly chic. However, when it comes to being innovative, Milanese designers lag way behind Londoners, New Yorkers and the Parisians.
This season, streetwear was approached with more luxurious fabrics, as hoodies were worn under printed tailored jackets and Swarovski encrusted trousers were paired with more rock and roll infused pieces.
Corsetry and lace see a comeback as innerwear and become as cool as outerwear. In this regard, Nensi Dojaka, whose presentation of stringy lingerie dresses were both convincing and compelling in a not-so-intimate colour palette, conveyed a sexy sophistication that held their own even in the ‘Me Too’ era.
Read on to discover the top trends which will prove to be a hit come Fall/Winter 2020…
CHAIN MAIL
Enter hardware detailing – if high fashion brands and designers’ collections are anything to go by, punky chains are in for Fall/Winter 2020. Be it dangling in the form of linked chain belts across the waist, or full throttle body chain tops, or even elaborated chain dresses a la Salvatore Ferragamo, chains were a prevalent trend on the recently concluded international fashion runways.
We especially loved Y-Project’s body chain detailing over the main top of the ensemble, and the clever way No 21 approached the trend, in the form of a sash over feather details.
CHECK MATE
Checks are to the winter season what florals are to spring.
For the approaching colder months, fashion continues to keep its obsession with the linear pattern pretty much alive. ‘What’s different?’ is what you would ask. Well, if we take heed of what the runways have to say, the Prince of Whales and Windowpane checks take a backseat this season, as we see plaids and glen plaids emerging front row.
The colour palette sticks to the classics, wherein we see many red and black and red and blue variations, and also a lot of neutral tones. Taking it up a notch are designers such as Antonio Marras and Bobby Abley who mixed checks with other prints, patterns and graphic elements.
CORSET CORNER
Corsetry details take centrestage as designers experiment with the hourglass shape for the upcoming season.
Details such as waist cinching, lace up details and sheer fabrics emerge as key points over materials such as slinky satins and soft, plush leathers.
Panelling played a major part at Ingie Paris and Alexander McQueen, whilst the denim coordinate version presented by GCDS really stood out.
FRINGES
Bohemian vibes make a comeback as fringes do a re-run on the international runways.
Playful longline fringed detailing over tops, skirts, dresses and shawls emerged as a key takeaway for the Fall/Winter 2020 season. Apart from the usual fabricated fringes, variations such as beaded fringes at Alberta Ferretti, metallic fringes at Ingie Paris, feathered fringes at Givenchy and Issey Miyake, and contrast piping versions at Christian Wijnants made a huge statement.
SEQUIN STORIES
All things shiny and sparkly are in trend for Fall/Winter 2020, as designers and high fashion labels alike go the sequins way. Sprinkled across dresses, tops, trousers and jackets, and even emerging as detailing over trims on coats, tonal sequins made quite a statement.
We liked the way Ashish channelled trippy vibes by introducing waves and patterns of monotone sequins over a full length, straight line dresses and also Bibhu Mohapatra’s take on the trend by merging sequins and sheer together. Bottega Veneta’s plush take on the trend introduced a softer look, whilst Drome’s oversized paillettes brought the party vibe on.
CUT OUTS
Showing skin has never really gone out of style, and this season, it plans to brave the cold.
Strategically placed over garments, to just show off a hint of skin, cuts and spliced patterns gain dominance on the Fall/Winter 2020 international fashion runways.
Also Read: The top silhouettes for Spring/Summer 2020
From trikini variations showcasing just a little bit of the waist over dresses (as spotted at Dion Lee, Christopher Kane and Patricia Padron), to sliced shoulder details (a la Burberry, Toga, Richard Malone and Rouland Mouret), to slit through versions (as seen at Christopher Kane, A.W.A.K.E Mode and Dilara Findikoglu).
Dion Lee and Charlotte Knowles’ spliced trousers take is big on the mass market level with many fast fashion denim retailers quickly adopting the trend.
